Peel the potatoes but keep the skins, in a muslin cloth or brand new dishcloth tied at the top. Cut the potatoes into golf ball size chunks. Get some water on a really rapid boil and salt it much more than you usually would. Pop your pots in the water and dunk the skins in too.

Leave to boil until tender – about 15 minutes. Drain and return to the pan to steam-dry, discarding the skins. If you dare, shake the cooked potatoes a little to break the edges.

Preheat the oven 220°C / 430°F. A couple of minutes before the potatoes go in, add your fat of choice to a large baking tray. Put this back in the oven to get smoky, wibbly hot for another 2 minutes. At this point add the potatoes to the fat.

After 20 minutes, take the tray out, add a sprig of rosemary, a couple of bashed (no need to peel) garlic cloves and a few splashes of red wine vinegar. Add a slice of orange zest if you have it. Take a fork and gently press on the back of each spud. Season with salt and pepper here, toss it all together and pop back in the oven.

After another 20 minutes toss the potatoes in the oils and flavourings, and pop them back in if you think they could do with a few more minutes.

When they come out of the oven sprinkle over sea salt and serve.