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food restaurant review reviews

is eat out to help out a success?

On 15th July 2020 chancellor Rishi Sunak announced the “Eat Out to Help Out” scheme to help bolster the revenues of the flagging hospitality sector. It boils down to a 50% discount on food and non-alcoholic drinks purchased to consume onsite, up to a maximum discount of £10 per person (inclusive of VAT) with no minimum spend. The discount is available only on Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays in August when restaurant trade is low relative to the weekend. A couple of weeks in, is Eat Out to Help Out a success?

The reason for this scheme is obvious. As a direct result of the Coronavirus pandemic forcing people to stay indoors and stay apart, restaurants, pubs and cafes have been among the worst hit. The Centre for Retail Research has forecast 20,620 locations will shut down and over 235,000 job losses. Annual sales in the sector are predicted to fall by more than 4%. ONS says 80% of hospitality firms stopped trading in April and 1.4 million hospitality workers have been furloughed – the highest proportions of any sector.

Any discount encouraging diners back to their local eateries is welcomed by retailers and the public alike, and the British love a bargain. The Resolution Foundation predict that the hospitality sector will be a great economic kickstarter. The sector directly contributed to recovery after the 2008 downturn.

How many businesses have signed up for Eat Out to Help Out?

Restaurant owners had to register for the scheme, and were keen to sign up.

Up to 16th August 85,000 individual restaurants had signed up for the deal. There’s a definite appetite for this.

As of 9th August HMRC had received 14,000 claims for 10.5m covers. A week later this number had skyrocketed to 48,000 claims for 35m covers, worth £180m. That’s a little over £5 per head. No doubt these figures will continue to snowball as retailers put in their claims – I suspect some will wait until all their August sales are in before claiming.

Booking service OpenTable showed that restaurants have been on average 27% fuller than they were during the same period (Monday to Wednesday) in August 2019.

Stephen Wall, Managing Director and co-founder, Pho, said:

The Eat Out to Help Out scheme has really been amazing. It’s so nice to see our restaurants full of happy staff and customers again. It has certainly benefitted our early week figures and seems to have encouraged the British public to dine out safely, as our restaurants are filling up and staying busy throughout the weekend, too.

There’s evidence that this is not cannibalizing weekend traffic, i.e. eating earlier in the week is not stopping people going out at the weekend. Aggregated data from hospitality software Fourth Data also shows that there was no drop off in trade later in the week. It’ll be interesting to see how this continues as the weather worsens. After a heatwave the weather has been noticeably worse. Many diners continue to seek an outdoor table for their own peace of mind. Our family are not ready to eat in a restaurant yet, so outdoor seating has been a premium. Anecdotally, I’ve struggled to get into places. The demand is clearly there.

What are the negatives?

So far, so good. But it’s not all been good news. Some have claimed some customers are being rude, and staff are suffering mental and physical strain. Gingeybites on twitter told me:

And this story is backed up elsewhere in the press. Sudden boosts in customer numbers put strain on an unprepared kitchen, and with diners likely over-ordering to maximise their discount, even the usual amount of customers will be creating a bigger order. This causes delays in the kitchen, which trickles down to serving staff. Combined with trying to feed a family in an already stressful school holiday period, some customers are venting their frustrations. Let’s not forget we are still supposed to be social distancing as well, and some eateries are seeing crowds of people.

There is an element of social disparity too. The consumer benefit is going to those who could already afford to eat out, at a now reduced rate. I don’t believe those who couldn’t have suddenly found restaurant-going affordable.

Is Eat Out to Help Out a Success?

In terms of driving footfall, the Government scheme looks to be a success. Ipsos Retail says the yearly high street footfall is down 53%. The atmosphere is described as ‘nervous and hesitant’. Queues and the shift to online contribute to marked declines in customer numbers.

But retailers and restaurateurs need to consider their staff when the boom period is over. Surges in customer numbers plus frustration levels similar to packed bank holidays have seen waiting and cooking staff pushed to their limits for extended periods. A gesture of goodwill such as a day off in lieu, team away days or gifting a subscription to a wellbeing service such as Headspace would be the thoughtful thing to do (that said, I appreciate this is just one more thing to pay for in this tumultuous environment).

Restaurants are not out of the woods yet. As the weather worsens diners will want to head indoors and some (like myself) are still hesitant to spend long periods in a public space. Gingeybites recent (unscientific!) poll lays this bare:

I’m pleased to see anything that encourages people to visit restaurants – and hopefully they are sampling local ones – and the more that offer a takeout service, the better. This is money spent in your local community that supports local jobs, which has been a theme of the lockdown. I appreciate the major chains such as McDonald’s and Costa getting on board too though, as so many people eat there. There are requests that the scheme will continue into September, and unofficially some retailers may choose to do this off their own back too.

With a few days left in the scheme, we wait to see how this progresses. I don’t know that the sector will be magically rescued, but maybe consumer confidence has been helped slightly. Let’s all hope for a return to normal as soon as possible.

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food restaurant review

restaurant review: Petrus

Spoilers: it was great.

Gordon Ramsay the character is not a very appealing person but that’s a shame as it can mask what a bloody good chef he is. There’s a number of his techniques I turn to first when cooking: his Wellington, his scrambled egg, his duck breast. I rewatched some of his programmes from the early 2000s and despite formatting of the time – jump cuts! Aggressive music! Booming voiceover! – his presentation style is confident yet assuring, ‘you can do this, just follow along.’ I wish he did more straight food programmes, but I guess the drama of his ‘reality’ shows probably pays the bills better in residuals time after time.

Pétrus is Michelin-starred dining with a French inspired menu. It’s in Knightsbridge and wears this on its sleeve: subdued entrance, glass wine room, lush carpet. But despite the opportunity to be stuffy, instead it feels extremely welcoming.

I had a landmark birthday recently, and was treated to dinner here to mark the occasion. On a weekday we were given the option of the tasting menu or a la carte. I love a tasting menu, but seeing a take on Black Forest Gateau on the a la carte sealed it immediately. It’s my favourite dessert by some distance and I will pick it above everything.

Some amuse bouche to start: crab cakes, puffs of fish so light they disappear. Then an earthy pea veloute, topped with a buttermilk foam. The acidic hit here is perfect.

Then bread. I could’ve eaten this by itself all day long. Sweet, savoury, moreish, chewy, crusty, slathered in creamy salted butter I desperately wanted another helping but wanted to save myself!

Starters proper then. I had a tian of crab, dressed with sour apple and radish. Very good, but I immediately had starter envy when my dining partner had dish of the night: scallops on bacon sabayon.

What a triumph. A fat, juicy scallop perfectly browned outside but melting in the middle. A savoury konbu dressing with a huge savoury punch. A scattering of grassy chives. But the sabayon was out of this world. Like diving into a custard tasting of bacon, I could’ve lapped up bowls of the stuff. Seriously clever cooking.

For main course we both elected for fillet of beef with ‘charcuterie’ sauce, a new one on me. Kinda like a pastrami sandwich in sauce form; a rich gravy with pastrami and gherkin. It was everything you want from fillet of beef, loose texture, huge umami hits and little sweet notes from the scattered onion leaf garnish.

At dessert it all went a bit bonkers. Having clocked it was my birthday they served the aforementioned Black Forest (excellent), along with a rum baba (boozy) and a birthday teacake (rich). Bloody hell I was full. Even before you pretend we didn’t have two petits fours on top.

Earlier on we clocked that the head chef was Russell Bateman, and we’d both spent time with him before. He took us on a tour of the (surprisingly small) kitchen and he bowled me over by remembering us meeting him.

You should know, despite writing about food far too much, I very rarely eat at fancy places. So was I taken in by the grandeur of it all? Highly likely. Was I having a great time with my son? Yeah, that’ll influence it. As far as I’m concerned food is 95% atmosphere including your dining guests, so by that logic it was always going to be good.

Check out my take on the scallop dish here.

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food restaurant review reviews

review: the cricketers, clavering

What do you do for your eleventh wedding anniversary? It’s kind-of in the middle there isn’t it? Not a glitzy round number like ten. And it’s traditional gift is steel. Nothing says romance like cold, hard steel does it?

Luckily a friend gave me a great idea: staying at The Cricketers pub in Clavering.

What makes it special is this is the pub where Jamie Oliver grew up and helped in the kitchens – it’s still owned by his parents. They’ve had the pub since 1976 when Jamie was a year old and it was his education. As someone into their food and a love of Essex, this seemed like an obvious choice.

They do a deal where you get a three course dinner, a night’s stay in their accommodation and breakfast for £145 which seemed good to me.

The accommodation is situated adjacent to the pub itself. There’s a number of buildings surrounding it where guests can stay. We were in no. 19, directly over the road from the pub. The room was very pleasant, decked out in purple and green with a large, comfy bed in a generous room.

The en suite bathroom looked recently fitted, in a beige marble. Little extras like a portable radio and bottled water were nice touches. Even though it’s on a ‘main’ road (as main as it gets in this sleepy corner of Essex) we weren’t disturbed by traffic.

After checking out our room we were getting hungry so we went back to the pub for something to eat. We were served complimentary bread and butter straight away. I enjoyed the butter so much, I made it myself when I got home. See the recipe for home made rosemary butter here.

You could choose anything you liked off the menu as part of the stay. As I crossed the road I had the strangest longing for cauliflower and wouldn’t you know it, crispy roast cauliflower was on the menu.

This is one of my favourite ways to eat cauliflower. The cauli was crisp on the edges, scorched from the oven. Served with houmous and chimmichurri it was a perfect starter.

The main was a pan-fried cod fillet on mushroom risotto.

The photo comes out a little beige but it was a comforting plate with excellently cooked fish.

I finished with a chocolate and cherry brownie.

The creme fraiche on the side was the most tart I’d ever had, but was really welcome against the dense, fudgy chocolate!

Service was friendly though it could be hard to get some attention when you’re at the back of the dining room. And while I understood the deal we’d booked on, it would be reassuring if the staff pre-empted you to explain that anything on the menu was included, with drinks paid separately.

Breakfast in the morning was full English, and eaten way before I could snap it! Trust me when I say it featured all your usual suspects of bacon, mushroom, herby sausage, tomato, eggs as you like them served with toast, hot drinks and juice. All of it was very tasty.

It was an excellent night’s stay and a really good value meal. Nothing was mind-blowing but it was all really comforting and very enjoyable. The accommodation was well-maintained and felt like a secret escape. All in all well worth a trip.

Oh and happy anniversary Mrs. Spud. Love you!

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eating out pizza restaurant review reviews

restaurant review: pizza express, southend-on-sea

Pizza Express Southend has had a makeover. See what’s new in my review.

When I was a lad going to Southend was a treat. A short hop on the train from Benfleet as a teenager meant the cinema, cool shops and places to hang out. It was the first place I saw a McDonald’s, the first place I saw a Starbucks and a Waterstone’s. I know these sound like the least exotic things on Earth, but as pre-teens these were the heights of civilization.

(Apparently there are eight Southends in the UK. The one I’m talking about is ‘Southend-on-Sea’ in Essex, but I’ve always referred to it as Southend, and that’s what I’m going to call it.)

One year, the town changed dramatically when an Odeon cinema arrived. A huge great cinema! Screens in the double-digits! Amazeballs! With the cinema came a new parade of bars and restaurants including a Pizza Express in 1996 – a first for the area.

Twenty years later in 2016, the Pizza Express has been renovated. True to the Pizza Express ethos, it has been redecorated to reflect the local area. Famed as a seaside town, they’ve put seaside pictures from the ’60s on the walls, a huge historic map of the area, plus artwork from local artists on reclaimed driftwood. It’s a fun and vibrant space.

Thankfully the wave of blue glass that used to dominate the entrance has gone. That weird nineties relic is in the bin. The renovation has had one drawback: the exposed brickwork and vaulted ceilings has created a slight noise problem which can make it difficult to hear. I did go on a crazy-busy Saturday afternoon however, full of birthday parties, couples and families alike.

And that’s the thing: Pizza Express has an appeal that is unpretentious and welcoming. Probably not going to shock your world view but you are guaranteed a good time with good food. And often that’s what you want, not to venture into exhilarating new gastronomic heights but to pop out somewhere that feels like a treat.

Speaking of which, I tried some of the new Autumn range.

The Rustichella (top) is an old favourite back for the season: pancetta and mozzarella drizzled with Caesar sauce. Mrs. Spud’s favourite pizza by a long stretch.

Spud Jr lucked out with the Basilicata however (bottom): a lamb and chilli meatball pizza, reminiscent of lahmacun. A great combination of flavours if you fancy something a little different. The children’s menu continues to be a favourite too.

With sides of calamari, polenta chips and olives, followed by the honey cream slice, ice creams and sorbets we left with very full tummies, and boxes of leftovers ready for a midnight snack. Service throughout was warm and friendly, with good suggestions.

Pizza Express continues to innovate while still holding wide appeal. And the Southend branch is no exception. Whether it’s a catch-up with friends or a quick meal before a film it’s a great place to hang out. Especially after a short hop on the train from Benfleet.

Pizza Express Southend-on-Sea
11 London Road, Southend on Sea, Essex, SS1 1PE

Here’s another review from Love Southend.

I was a guest of Pizza Express.

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