Why do porcini mushrooms stink so bad while they are marinating in hot water? It’s like cat food!

That said, many dishes would be all the poorer without their meaty, chewy flavour. I’ve combined them here with chestnut mushrooms, chicken breast pieces, and surrounded it all with rich, sweet marsala-infused chicken stock and just a touch of cream. It was very tasty, but a little thin. If I did it again (and I will) I’d add a touch of flour to help thicken it up, and some finely chopped curly parsley for a fresh, green edge.

Porcini marsala conchiglie:

300g pasta (penne or conchiglie, anything that can catch some sauce)

1 pack dried porcini mushrooms

200g chestnut mushrooms, sliced

250g diced chicken breast

300ml chicken stock

100ml marsala

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 sprig rosemary, leaves picked and finely chopped

2 tablespoons cream

shaved parmesan to serve

Pour boiling water on the porcini for 15 mins. Drain and rinse of grit, then finely chop two thirds of them.

Brown chicken pieces in a hot oiled pan and put to one side.

Cook the pasta according to the packet instructions.

Add the rosemary and garlic to the pan and fry for one minute.

Add the chestnut and porcini mushrooms (sliced and whole) to the pan and fry for a further 5 minutes. Season.

Add the marsala and allow to bubble until the taint of alcohol evaporates. Add the chicken stock and allow to simmer until reduced by half.

Add the cream and stir through.

Scoop into bowls and top with parmesan.