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exploring the rich history of british cuisine: a review of ‘historic heston’ by heston blumenthal

Historic Heston is a culinary history book by renowned chef Heston Blumenthal. The book is a celebration of British cuisine and takes readers on a journey through time, exploring the history of food in Britain and the evolution of its flavours.

 

recipes covered in Historic Heston

Blumenthal is best known for his experimental and innovative approach to cooking, and Historic Heston is no exception. The book features recipes that are inspired by centuries-old dishes, but with a modern twist that is sure to impress even the most discerning foodie. The research is deep and detailed, and many of the historic recipes have found homes in his restaurants such as The Fat Duck and Dinner by Heston.

One of the standout features of the book is its beautiful design. The photographs are stunning and the layout is both elegant and easy to follow. As with other projects Dave McKean provides quirky and humorous illustrations.

Each recipe is accompanied by a detailed description of its history, and Blumenthal’s commentary on the origins of each dish adds a personal touch that makes the book even more engaging. One my favourite parts is reading through recipe snippets in their original old English and scrying the meaning. Take this from ‘The Forme of Cury‘ (1390), often referred to as the first English cookbook we have evidence of:

“Take ryse and waisshe hem clene, and do hem in an erthen pot with gode broth and lat hem seeth wel. Aftirward take almaund mylke and do therto, and colour it with safroun & salt, & messe forth.”

I particularly enjoyed references to almond milk, an ingredient I definitely think of as a very modern thing!

The recipes themselves are complex and require a certain level of skill in the kitchen. Like The Fat Duck Cookbook I cannot see many people attempting any of the dishes. One of Heston’s most famous recipes is Meat Fruit, a chicken liver parfait enrobed in an orange jelly. I had a go at making Meat Fruit, with mixed results.

Blumenthal’s attention to detail is evident in every dish, and his passion for British cuisine shines through in every page. Whether you’re a seasoned chef or just starting out, there is something for everyone in this book.

One of the most interesting aspects of Historic Heston is the way in which Blumenthal blends traditional techniques with modern technology. He uses sous vide cooking, liquid nitrogen, and other cutting-edge techniques to create dishes that are both traditional and innovative. This approach is a testament to Blumenthal’s skill and creativity, and sets him apart as one of the most innovative chefs of our time.

The recipes themselves are diverse and cover a range of dishes, from simple soups and stews to more complex dishes like lamb with cucumber ketchup and pea puree. Each recipe is accompanied by a list of ingredients and detailed instructions to show you what goes into top-end food.

Overall, Historic Heston is a fantastic book for anyone interested in British cuisine and the history of food. Blumenthal’s passion and creativity are evident on every page, and the book is a testament to his skill as a chef. Whether you’re looking to expand your culinary horizons or simply want to try something new, this book is a must-read for any food lover.

Buy Historic Heston on Amazon

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the fat duck: innovative cuisine and multi-sensory dining

Located in the picturesque village of Bray, The Fat Duck is a highly acclaimed restaurant that has been pushing the boundaries of cuisine since it opened in 1995. Led by the renowned chef Heston Blumenthal, The Fat Duck is known for its innovative and experimental approach to cooking, including the use of molecular gastronomy techniques. Let’s take a closer look at The Fat Duck and what makes it one of the world’s most famous restaurants.

The Cuisine of The Fat Duck

The food served at The Fat Duck is unlike anything you’ve ever tasted before. Chef Heston Blumenthal is constantly experimenting with new techniques and ingredients to create dishes that are both visually stunning and delicious. Some of the restaurant’s most famous dishes include nitro-poached green tea and lime mousse, snail porridge, parsnip cereal, and hot and iced tea.

Heston started the restaurant cooking the food he knew: classical French food in a bistro style. This slowly evolved into more experimental and entertaining dishes as Heston become emboldened by rave reviews from diners and critics alike. The menu has hit a plateau where it evolves slowly now, with few changes in the past couple of years apart from festive surprises.

Many of the Fat Duck signatures came from the limitations of the small kitchen. The gas supply was a domestic one, not suited to a busy professional kitchen. When cooking green beans he had to cook in small batches so as not to lower the temperature of the water. Investigating why they lost colour caused Heston to seek out famous food writer and probing mind Harold McGee, a relationship that continues to this day.

To find out more about how the recipes are put together there is a Fat Duck Cookbook based on dishes from the restaurant.

The Experience

One of the things that sets The Fat Duck apart from other restaurants is its multi-sensory dining experience. Every aspect of the meal, from the presentation of the food to the music that is played, is carefully designed to engage all of the senses. In addition to the visually stunning dishes, the restaurant also uses sound and scent to enhance the dining experience. For example, the dish called “Sound of the Sea” features a plate of seafood accompanied by an iPod playing ocean sounds.

Heston has had a fixation on ‘being like a kid in a sweetshop’ to the extent where the final course involved custom building a Victorian clockwork model sweetshop which mechanically opens to reveal a range of treats at the table side.

The menu has evolved into Heston’s motto “question everything.”

How much does it cost to eat at Heston’s restaurant?

Eating at The Fat Duck is not cheap, but it is an experience that is worth the price. With a vast brigade, attention to detail and limited number of covers in the restaurant, prices are high. The restaurant offers a tasting menu, which costs £275-£395 per person depending on the time and day of the week, and includes a range of dishes that showcase the restaurant’s signature techniques and ingredients. Additionally, there is a wine pairing option, which costs an additional £195 per person. (At time of writing). Midweek lunchtime bookings are cheaper, which definitely adds up at this price!

The History of The Fat Duck

The Fat Duck was founded by Heston Blumenthal in 1995 converted from an old pub. Locals were sceptical and in some cases angered at the restaurant coming in and taking over. The restaurant quickly gained a reputation for its innovative cuisine. In 1999, The Fat Duck was awarded its first Michelin star, and by 2004, it had earned three stars, making it one of only four restaurants in the UK to hold the prestigious three-star rating. Over the years, the restaurant has continued to win awards and accolades for its innovative approach to cooking and dining.

The Fat Duck menu, August 2007. A la carte is no longer available.

In 2006 Heston received an OBE for services to British Gastronomy.

Controversy

In 2009, The Fat Duck was at the centre of a controversy when over 500 diners fell ill with norovirus after eating at the restaurant. The incident was traced back to contaminated oysters, and The Fat Duck was forced to close for two weeks while the issue was addressed. The restaurant has since implemented new safety protocols to ensure that such an incident does not happen again.

Conclusion

The cooking of Heston Blumenthal has inspired me for decades. Many of the dishes on this blog are directly inspired by the Fat Duck chef: sous vide gammon, treacle tart, triple cooked chips, and roast potatoes, all of which I cook often and keep looking at. Picking apart a recipe to understand why it works has pushed me further in my cooking.

If you’re a foodie looking for a truly unique dining experience, The Fat Duck is definitely worth a visit. The restaurant’s innovative cuisine, multi-sensory dining experience, and reputation for excellence make it one of the most famous and highly regarded restaurants in the world. So why not book a table and experience it for yourself? Just be prepared to pay for the privilege.

Buy The Fat Duck Cookbook from Amazon

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the fat duck cookbook: a culinary journey like no other

The Fat Duck is a world-renowned restaurant in Bray, England, known for its inventive and whimsical cuisine. The restaurant has been awarded three Michelin stars and has consistently been ranked among the top restaurants in the world.

In 2008, chef-owner Heston Blumenthal released “The Fat Duck Cookbook,” which chronicles the history of the restaurant and offers recipes for some of its most famous dishes. The book is a culinary journey like no other, showcasing Blumenthal’s unique approach to cooking and his relentless pursuit of innovation and perfection.

Part autobiography, part recipe book and part science textbook, The Fat Duck Cookbook is no light bedtime reading. It is physically large and heavy, with a pretty small font too. Here’s a two page spread:

One of the standout recipes in the book is “Nitro-Scrambled Egg and Bacon Ice Cream,” which involves using liquid nitrogen to create a frozen custard base that is then mixed with bacon and eggs. As food blogger Also of BigFatUndertaking notes in his review of the recipe, “Possibly the most famous dish of the Fat Duck. Known around the world. I can understand why.”

Another notable recipe is “Sound of the Sea,” which involves serving a seafood dish accompanied by an iPod playing sounds of crashing waves and seagulls. As The Curious Pixie observed, “The multisensory course certainly bought the seaside to me for a few minutes.” I’ve cooked this recipe from the book and it is painstaking in detail.

All the recipes are like this – incredibly detailed, with lots of hard-to-find ingredients and unusual equipment – but you can’t accuse Heston of being secretive. It’s all laid out there.

Speaking of BigFatUndertaking, I highly recommend you read his blog where he recreates every single recipe from the book. It’s a staggering achievement and one that earned him dinner at the restaurant and rightfully so!

In addition to the recipes, the book also includes stunning photography and detailed explanations of the science behind Blumenthal’s cooking techniques. It’s a must-read for any aspiring chef or food lover, and it’s a testament to the power of creativity and imagination in the kitchen. Even his devotion to the perfect chip was a lesson in obsession.

Overall, “The Fat Duck Cookbook” is a culinary journey like no other, offering a glimpse into the mind of one of the world’s most innovative and unconventional chefs. As SkinnyChef puts it, “It’s anything but your standard cookbook, in fact it looks more like an avant garde coffee table book crammed full of chic caricatures and food that resemble cubist sculptures.” Don’t buy it expecting to be knocking out Michelin-starred food. Read for the appreciation of what it takes to work at the highest level.

Buy the Big Fat Duck Cookbook on Amazon

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so what else is new?

A round-up of little bits and pieces I’ve been mucking about with at Spud HQ.

Trying (and failing) to make Heston Blumenthal’s meat fruit

I had a lot of fun recreating this iconic recipe from Dinner by Heston. Meat fruit is a trompe l’oeil whereby a mandarin sphere encases chicken liver parfait. I made some terrible mistakes. Watch how I got on.

Kathy’s continental potatoes

Do you listen to the Off Menu Podcast? Ed Gamble and James Acaster ask guests to name their favourite starter, main dish, side, dessert and drink. It’s an excuse for some fun chat. One of their dream guests was the incredible Kathy Burke, who had a homely and delicious sounding menu. Her side dish of “Kathy’s Continental Potatoes” spoke to me for some reason so I had to make it. And whaddya know, they’re great!

Boxtails

The lovely people at Boxtails sent me some of their cocktail sachets to try. Letterbox-friendly, their boxes come in a variety of flavours. I’ve tried a bunch, to the point where I can’t remember what I’ve drunk now! Though I do recall the Bramble being tasty. Word of warning, they are pretty strong! I recommend plenty of ice. And then have another one.

Garlic and black pepper seasoning

I’m a little obsessed with this seasoning from Santa Maria lately. Readily available in supermarkets. I’ve been grinding it over roast potatoes, into meatballs, over broccoli… whatever I can get my hands on. Love it!

Gumbo Recipes

I’ve been playing around with Gumbo recipes lately. Chuck in some ingredients and you get some recipe inspo back atcha. Gumbo crawls recipe sites (including this one!) and pulls in ideas. Other sites have done this but I like the wide variety of sources it uses. Give it a try!

Floyd on France

I’ve been reminding myself what an absolute treat the show Floyd on France (iPlayer link) was. 7 episodes of self-deprecating, leisurely escapades in food and cooking. It feels like the whole thing is made up on the spot and it’s all the better for it. There’s never been another presenter like Keith Floyd. Go revisit if you’re in the UK. And if not, Floyd on Fish is easily found on YouTube.

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