A little treat from 30 Minute Meals: a black forest affogato. If I can’t manage a dessert at an Italian restaurant, I’ll try and make room for an affogato – an espresso tipped over a vanilla ice cream. Simple but tasty. The addition of cherries and chocolate to this makes it brilliant. Give it a try!
Black forest affogato:
1 tablespoon of instant coffee
3 teaspoons sugar
Some shortbread, crumbled
A big scoop of good vanilla ice cream per person
A tin of cherries, drained
Some dark chocolate, chopped or grated
Put some shortbread at the bottom of the bowl. Plop some ice cream on top, dot with cherries and scatter liberally with chocolate.
Mix the coffee and sugar with boiling water, and splash over enough coffee to get things melting.
Apologies for the dishevelled appearance in the photo, sadly the decent ones went immediately!
I have attempted macarons before; often problem-laden and unpredictable. The worst part was trying to let them set to achieve the mythical ‘foot’; the gluey bit on the bottom that forms that crusty ring. So when I was invited to a pre-launch macaron class at the Waitrose Cookery School I jumped at the chance.
The training kitchens, situated in Goldhurst Terrace, London, are immaculate. Warm, open and inviting, it’s difficult not to feel completely welcome and at ease. Lots of bright lighting and muted wood tones give a relaxing feel to the lobby, giving way to the pristine whites of the actual cooking area. There’s also a TV studio-style lecture theatre.
James Campbell piping like a ninja
Headed up by Gordon McDermott the brigade are full to the brim with chefs fresh from Michelin-starred kitchens to train and teach. Our main chef-tutor for the evening was James Campbell, a confident and engaging Scot of undoubted skill. He took us through the recipe effortlessly before dispatching us to give it a whirl. Paired with the affable Craig of London Food Detective, we set to with jolly expensive food mixers and brand-new ovens to macaron like we had never macaron before. We had a whale of a time.
We made a few mistakes, in timings and piping, but then where better to make a mistake than under the guidance of someone who use to churn out 300 desserts a night for Gary Rhodes? James pointed out the errors of our ways and set us on the right path. His techniques in instructing me how to pipe were fascinating and obvious at the same time. It’s those pro tips that you only get from doing the job for years at a professional level that makes it all worthwhile. We’d made some cracking (no pun intended) bitter orange macarons. There was also some cocktail instruction going on but I had to get our confections out of the oven! Some mulled wine macarons were also passed around and they were sensational. Filled with a boozy buttercream and a hit of syrupy reduced mulled wine, they are sure to be a hit this Winter.
If you’re considering a cookery class, or looking for a gift for the foodie in your life, try the Waitrose Cookery School. The facilities and tuition are top-notch. As a former trainer myself, I can spot a decent coach and everyone there was great.
For these chocolate and caramel macarons (known as Makka-Pakka-Roons in our house for their beige colouring) I adapted a recipe James provided. And how delightful they were. Crisp shells with chewy interiors, and sweet gooey fillings, these were a real hit. The key trick is to make them with an Italian meringue, that is made with a syrup rather than adding caster sugar while whisking. This means you don’t have to leave them to sit which is the real trick to awesome macarons.
Chocolate and caramel macarons (makes about 30):
For the meringue:
4 egg whites
187g caster sugar
75ml water
162g ground almonds
25g cocoa powder
187g icing sugar
For the chocolate:
160g double cream
200g dark chocolate
40g butter
For the caramel:
300g sugar
75ml water
250g cream
25g butter
Preheat the oven to 140°C.
Get the caster sugar and water in a pan and heat it up. It needs to reach 114°C.
While the syrup heats, whisk the egg whites gently in a mixer. When the syrup is the right temperature slowly trickle it into the eggs so it is incorporated gently and without hitting the whisk if possible. Turn it up to max and let it whisk for 5 minutes until thick, glossy and that you-can-hold-it-over-your-headness.
While that whisks, mix the almonds, cocoa and icing sugar together and then mix in the egg whites. It will be a really tough paste.
Mix the egg white into the paste a third at a time. Try not to whack the hell out of it. Spoon it into a piping bag and line a tray with baking parchment (stick it down with a dab of meringue mix if you like).
Pipe the mix on to the tray, leaving a gap between each one. When piping, keep the bag at 2cm over the tray and squeeze gently until you have s mall blob about 4cm in diameter on the tray. To prevent the meringue getting a wispy ‘nipple’ on top, pull away from the tray with a swirl and a flick. This needs practice!
Bake in the oven for exactly 12 minutes. While that happens, make the fillings.
For the chocolate, bring the cream to the simmer and add the chocolate. When melted add the butter, stir and allow to cool.
For the caramel, melt the sugar and water together until golden, then slowly add the cream. When that’s blended add the butter, stir and allow to cool.
When the meringues have cooled for a few minutes, pull the parchment up and peel the macaron away from the paper. Pipe some chocolate ganache around the rim and drop a few spots of caramel in the middle. Sandwich together and watch them disappear.
Nigella is back, with as camp a parade of gluttony and swank as you would expect. As usual her recipes swell with “of course you should put x and y together, it’s so obvious” and impressive shortcuts.
An absolute pig of a dessert was served up in the series opener, peanut butter cheesecake. She seemed to offer about a dozen warnings along the lines of “well, this is only a treat” and “all things in moderation” leading me to believe that Compliance had a fit when she presented a recipe that featured 6 eggs, sour cream, cream cheese, peanut butter and chocolate. Peanut butter seems to be one of her things, and why wouldn’t it be? That combo of sweet and salty is irresistible.
Surprisingly, it’s nowhere near as rich as you think it’s going to be. Indulgent yes, but this just means a pleasingly sweet and creamy texture with that one-more-piece-ness of salted peanuts. It’s great fun, and dead easy to make, so it comes highly recommended. It’s made a million times easier with a food processor, so use one of those if you have access to one.
Whizz up the base ingredients to dust. Press and pack down into a spring-form tin and leave in the fridge to firm up while you get on with the filling.
Whizz together the filling ingredients until super-smooth and creamy. Pour over the base and pop in the oven for 50 minutes or so, until it has just set on top. (As Nigella put it, “so there is still a hint of inner thigh wobble”). Leave it to stand and cool slightly before adding the topping. It may crack at this point but it doesn’t matter.
Melt the topping ingredients together in a saucepan and pour over the cake. Pop back in the oven for 10 minutes to let the topping set. Take it out and pop in the fridge for a couple of hours or until needed.
A fudgy-textured and sweet treat: the diplomatico, the twin brother of the tiramisu only with worse PR. I’ve gone for a cross-breed here blending elements of both desserts. A diplomisu, if you will. This can be made a day or so in advance (always handy) and for best results leave it out of the fridge for 20 minutes or so before eating; the textures soften and taking the chill off enhances the silky, creamy texture. If you like boozy coffee-alcohol puds, this is one for you.
Sponge finger tip: I think this works best with really sodden sponge biscuits. You can obviously only submerge them for a few seconds before they turn to mush in your hands. To avoid this, give them a short dip until starting to soften and place them in the dish. Then gently drizzle with more marinating liquor to increase their drunkenness. Do this slowly to ensure the fingers have time to absorb the liquid.
Diplomatico:
500ml double cream, whipped to soft peaks
250g mascarpone cheese
120g dark chocolate, melted
50g icing sugar
150ml strong coffee, cooled
5 tablespoons marsala
About 30 sponge fingers
Grated chocolate, to serve
Whip the cream to soft peaks, and reserve about a third of it.
Stir the icing sugar and mascarpone together, then fold into 2/3 of the softly whipped cream. Gradually fold in the melted chocolate. Check for sweetness at this point as this will be where most of the sweet taste from the pudding will come from, and add more icing sugar as necessary.
Stir the coffee, marsala and a tablespoon of icing sugar together. Dip the sponge fingers in the mix until soggy, and then make a layer of them in a rectangular cake tin (I use a silicone one to get the dessert out easier later).
Add a layer of chocolate cream, then follow with more boozy biscuits. Keep layering, ending with sponge fingers. Add the remaining cream on top of this and refrigerate for at least a couple of hours.
Before serving garnish with grated chocolate, then cut into thick slices.
