Categories
film review

the menu film review

The Menu is a thriller starring Ralph Fiennes, Anya Taylor-Joy and Nicholas Hoult set in the world of top-end fine dining. You don’t see many film review on this blog but I thought this was worth doing!

Credit: Eric Zachanowich/Eric Zachanowich – © 20th Century Studios. All Rights Reserved.

The Menu unfolds like a tense play, taking place almost entirely within the dining room of an extremely exclusive restaurant. It is bound to a remote island where of course there is no phone signal (phones have to be taken out of all modern TV and movies!). Anya Taylor-Joy plays Margot, an unimpressed ‘normal’ dragged along this Michelin-inspired ride by Nicholas Hoult’s Tyler. I confess to being ‘seen’ as the cool kids say by this know-it-all foodie character desperate to impress the chefs with his knowledge of techniques and ingredients. All too close for comfort! He does however play the pretentious sycophant exactly right, and we never quite cheer for him.

Presiding over all is Ralph Fiennes as Chef Slowik. Aloof and mercurial, he commands his brigade with fascistic control and demands attention for his food from the diners. With his trademark cold edge you never quite know where Fiennes is going to take the character next. From meek mummy’s boy to deranged stalker there’s more than a little Norman Bates in this chef.

I derived a lot of pleasure from the title cards describing each dish. They are scathingly accurate for the modern style of describing and naming dishes, poring over them cinematically, almost reverently, in the style of Netflix’s Chef’s Table. Renowned French chef Dominique Crenn was food consultant and with three Michelin stars herself knows exactly what game is being played here.

© 20th Century Studios. All Rights Reserved.

Despite wry observation and tense scenes it doesn’t quite all pay off. It appears to head for one direction and doesn’t quite land it. Fiennes’s obsessive chef appears to have vendettas with the guests but at varying levels of ferocity and subjectivity that don’t always satisfy. This is reportedly a script that found itself on the black list for years, purgatory for decent ideas waiting to be snatched up, and it shows. It likely got battered into different shapes during years in the wilderness seeking a home and the end result is little unfocused. Good performances all round though.

A cynical blend of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory and Clue, The Menu will tickle anyone with a dark sense of humour, and amuse the bouche of anyone used to high-end restaurant pretentiousness.

Categories
book review food

my favourite cookbooks of 2022

Gifting time is here! Check out my choices for the cookbooks of the year.

It feels like we are travelling through our cookbooks, more and more. Vicariously going long-haul as we find ourselves constrained in the pocket. Scrolling through lists of the best selling food books of the year finds us leaping from country to country. Amazon’s bestsellers reads more like a travel brochure.

Here’s a selection of the four books I’ve enjoyed most this year. It’s not been an easy shortlist, so let me know what I missed.

Quick note: if you love to cook but hate sifting through recipes, try out Eat Your Books. With over 2.3 million recipes indexed Eat Your Books will help you figure out exactly what to eat for dinner tonight, based on the books you already own. Build shopping lists, add your own recipes and more. Jane has always been a big supporter of BigSpud and I highly recommend her site – try it out now and use code EYB2230 to unlock a free one month Premium membership.

Journey to Flavour by Dev Mukherji

I’ve had the pleasure of knowing Dev for many years. He’s always, always been passionate about vegan food that you simply can’t recognise as anything but delicious. He takes inspiration from his travels and never compromises on flavour. His pan-global, zero-waste style keeps you guessing. From rapid curries to slow casseroles, Dev’s book will take you on a journey through his life and with combinations you’ve never had before. Read my review here.

Buy Journey To Flavour from Amazon

It’s All About Dinner by Nicky Corbishley (Kitchen Sanctuary)

It’s been so exciting watching Nicky absolutely smash her way to this amazing career: from a fledgling YouTube channel that now boasts over 300,000 subscribers, to one of the most delicious Instagrams you’ll ever see Kitchen Sanctuary is a wealth of family-friendly, everyday recipes. They are all winners and ones your whole family will love, and every recipe has a QR code that will take you to the video version. A treasure trove of favourites you’ll reach for again and again. I recommend her chicken a la king, a real old-fashioned dish that’s desperate for a comeback.

Buy It’s All About Dinner from Amazon

Is This a Cookbook? by Heston Blumenthal

Well is it a cookbook? Yes. There could be no doubt that this book would be on the list, Blumenthal fanboy that I am. Yes there are recipes, but nothing bonkers or outlandish – well apart from the chapter dedicated to eating crickets but let’s come back to that – but the good stuff is literally in the margins. Any reader of Terry Pratchett will tell you some of his absolute best writing is in the footnotes. As it is here, where Heston ruminates further on why an ingredient works, or how to push a recipe further, or how to stimulate the other senses while eating. There is a whole page dedicated to the mindful eating of an egg sandwich! Along with esoteric sketches from David McKean this is one to make you think about what you cook, and what you eat.

Oh the crickets? A whole section decrying how we do need to reduce meat intake (no arguments) and then how you can replace that protein with insects. Mostly it’s in the form of tasteless cricket powder. Mostly.

Buy Is This a Cookbook? from Amazon

Taste: My Life Through Food by Stanley Tucci

I really didn’t expect to put a book by an actor in this list! But Stanley has a way of entwining his life with food that is utterly irresistible. More than Heston’s above this isn’t quite a cookbook – more an autobiography interspersed with the recipes from key moments of his life. I have a soft spot (more of a doughy middle) for Italian food, and for the charmingly robust way Italian American food amps everything up. And hearing Stanley talk about growing up with a pot of Sunday gravy on the go, and how he spends Christmas, is all utterly charming. In some ways the book is infuriating – it’s hard to get further than three chapters without wanting to skulk into the fridge for a snack. But it’s a delight.

Buy Taste from Amazon

That was my year in cookbooks – what were your favourite books this year?

Previous years’ lists:

The 2021 cookbook list

The 2019 cookbook list

The 2018 cookbook list

The 2017 cookbook list

The 2016 cookbook list

The 2015 cookbook list

The 2014 cookbook list

The 2013 cookbook list

The 2012 cookbook list

The 2011 cookbook list

The 2010 cookbook list

Categories
product review

sage smart scoop ice cream machine review

I’ve written about the Sage / Breville Smart Scoop ice cream machine before, but I thought it was worth a thorough video review.

You may be considering purchasing an ice cream machine and there are generally two types: ones that have a container you prefreeze and ones like this where it can freeze itself.

This ice cream machine has an internal compressor that means it’s like a mini freezer inside. Practically this means it can make ice cream from start to finish in just under an hour. You don’t have a tub you put in the freezer and the whole thing is self-contained. The Smart Scoop can make ice cream, granitas, sorbets, frozen yogurts… all manner of frozen desserts.

It’s the same brushed steel as you’ll find in other things in the Sage range. There are no  other options it just comes in this colour.

The control panel is simple, just a few buttons and a dial to set the firmness of the mix you’re creating essentially. The dial is a timer how long does this machine churn for.

What’s good

The fact that you don’t have a spare bucket or pail to put in the freezer for a couple of hours beforehand is great meaning when you’re ready to make ice cream it’s ready to make ice cream – just push a button and go. In a pinch I’ve used store-bought custard (good stuff from the from the chilled department) and put that straight into the machine with pretty good results but the best results always come out
when you make your own custard and you customize the flavour exactly how you want it.

What’s not so good

the flip side of being a self-condensing machine is twofold. It’s noisy and makes a hell of a racket so much so I generally make it live in the garage where it does its work so I don’t have to hear it. Furthermore it’s also pretty heavy because it’s got a whole freezer inside it. It also means it has quite a large footprint. It’s also around £400 and only you can decide if that’s worth it for the amount of ice cream you’re going to make. Trust me it’s one of the best machines on the market for doing it.

Watch the video review below. This also includes a recipe for butterscotch ice cream!

For more ice cream recipes search the blog here: https://bigspud.co.uk/?s=ice+cream

Buy the Sage Smart Scoop on Amazon 

Categories
product review

drinkmate omnifizz review

When the weather warms up, I get really into sparkling water. I also find that supermarkets seem to run out of it really quickly and I’m not sure why. Having the ability to make my own whenever I want would be great… and here’s where the Omnifizz Drinkmate comes in!

Let’s get something out of the way. The brand name associated with making your own fizzy drinks in UK households is SodaStream. That product that is marketed at carbonating hyper concentrates of juice that you have to buy. Drinkmate has patented technology allowing it to carbonate any cold beverage.

I received a cool blue device, plus a CO2 cartridge to get going. It’s a slim device but it is on the tall side – I have to angle it to fit under my cupboards but once it’s there, it’s there.

Once you’ve locked in the CO2 canister into the back, using is simple. Fill the bottle with water, add the cap and press a button to infuse with bubbles. Depressurize and you have sparkling water. Here’s a video of the process:

As simple as that.

Beyond water, the Omnifizz site also suggests loads of recipes to try. I tried the lime soda and the sparkling margarita and they were lots of fun. But most of the time I used it for adding fizz to any old squash I was drinking which makes it feel more refreshing. It was also fun to ask guests if they’d like their drink fizzy as easy as asking them if they want ice (I admit I didn’t ask if they wanted their cappuccinos carbonated). It’s also a good alternative to sugar-laden fizzy drinks as I can make whatever I want.

So the device is dead easy to use and available in a bunch of different colours. It’s quite pretty and fun to use. The pricing is equivalent to other drinks carbonators, though they do have a good scheme available for recycling CO2 canisters from any brand and then giving you a discount on future CO2 purchases.

I’ve used the device maybe 50 times and I think the CO2 is just starting to wane. A single CO2 canister with no sendback is about £35 so is pricey by itself. It makes a lot more sense to recycle your CO2 and then the price comes down. It’s still quite a lot to shell out when you want more fizzy drinks however. One more tiny negative is carbonating the drink is noisy by itself – not really a problem but I have to make sure my cat isn’t in the room as the sudden whoosh spooks him!

A well made, fun product and worth investment if you go through a lot of fizzy drinks.

Buy a Drinkmate on Amazon https://amzn.to/3SdhIPR

The team sent me one to try. I wasn’t told what to say not did I accept payment.

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