Categories
food restaurant review

my favourite things from 2023

Join me as I look back over they year with some of my (and your!) favourite projects at BigSpud HQ from 2023.

Sea bass at the Blacksmiths, Isle of Wight

The sea bass dish as they serve it at the Blacksmiths pub

The best meal I had all year was at a pub overlooking the north coast of the Isle of Wight. The Blacksmiths is an absolute treat, with me wanting to try every dish. The sea bass was a delight, crisp and fresh, with a sweet and savoury bread salad. I cannot tell you from an ingredients list alone how delicious it was. It was perfect. I only regret that I don’t live closer so I can go there for dinner every day.

Marco Pierre White’s fondant potatoes

Marco Pierre White has defined the second half of the year for me; I’ve read loads of his books, watched his programmes, made his recipes. Understanding what makes this titan of restaurants tick has been fascinating. I’ve dug into his personality and uncovered the simplicity that lies at the core of his cooking, and fastidious attention to detail to replicate recipes repeatedly. This fondant potato recipe was a real insight into how he works.

Steak ‘n’ Snails

Continuing the Marco Pierre White theme, I made the recipe that he made as tribute to old friend Anthony Bourdain. It’s a very umami affair, with fast-cooked steak, meaty mushrooms and plump garlicky mushrooms. I made this on a rainy November evening and it was just the thing to pep me up – it’s the parsley that makes it, “washing the palate” as Marco says.

Biography of Keith Floyd

It’s fair to say this video biography of Keith Floyd I made didn’t quite land as well as I’d hoped – I’d put a lot of work into it, reading two of his autobiographies and watching every programme of his I could find. It’s a fascinating story of boom and bust and just going for it at every turn – it’s only nine minutes so give it a watch if you’ve any interest in how TV cookery has changed over the years.

Chicken, sweetcorn and chorizo pizza

After a trip to Gordon Ramsay’s Street Pizza Kitchen I became obsessed with the combo of chicken, sweetcorn, and chorizo. It’s an absolute winner.

Chicken, sweetcorn and chorizo pizza

Recreating Heston’s meat fruit

I’ve been meaning to make this for the longest time. I finally got around to it… and it was quite the disaster! I got the gelatine ratio wrong and overworked it, leading to a mis-shapen sloppy mess. Watch the video to see how it turned out.

Heston’s meat fruit

Most popular with you

Meanwhile, what were the top posts from 2023 that kept you coming back this year?

Beef dripping sauce – After a trip to steak restaurant Miller & Carter I had to have a go at recreating their signature sauce. After a few goes I’m really pleased with this rich, indulgent gravy.

Onion loaf – and hot on the heels of beef dripping I also made the crispy, savoury side dish.

Brined leg of lamb – this proved very popular as most people associate brining with white meats. But a salty bath for lamb brings out the deep savouriness that matches it perfectly.

Philly cheese stack – I don’t mind McDonald’s, but I’ve definitely grown bored of their predictable menu. But in Autumn they came out with a burger laced with cheese sauce and fried onions. I recreated it and it’s absolutely bang on.

Cornershop curry – this Jamie Oliver recipe is warming, tasty, and can be made very easily with stuff you have in the cupboard. A great mideweek-er.

Thanks for coming along for the ride in 2023. I look forward to sharing more food adventures with you in 2024!

Categories
food video

the original TV chef: a keith floyd biography

Keith Floyd played a significant role in shaping the modern TV cookery show. His unplanned approach brought about a sea change in television cooking programs. He’s one of the greatest TV cooks ever, so I decided to make a video biography about him:

Prior to Floyd, cooking shows were often formal and instructional, focusing solely on the process of preparing a dish. Fanny Cradock and Delia Smith were – quite appropriately – focused on the food. In his words “dull and worthy and akin to a secondary school lesson in modern home economics.” Keith Floyd’s unscripted style and relaxed approach to filming brought a sense of chaos to the world of TV cooking shows. Unlike the meticulously planned and rehearsed programs that came before him, Floyd embraced spontaneity and welcomed the unpredictable moments that unfolded during filming. His shows were known for their sense of adventure and the feeling that anything could happen at any moment.

It is the story of a partying nomad, trying his hand at something for five minutes before moving on to the next thing that had caught his attention. And while a life well lived, it also feels like a life stopping short of true happiness. He died at age 65, having been married 5 times, survived by his son and daughter.

I’ve written about Keith before, but please check out my video. As the cool kids say, please like and subscribe!

Here’s The Guardian’s contemporaneous obituary.

Categories
food garlic orange pate potatoes red onion tomato

so what else is new?

A round-up of little bits and pieces I’ve been mucking about with at Spud HQ.

Trying (and failing) to make Heston Blumenthal’s meat fruit

I had a lot of fun recreating this iconic recipe from Dinner by Heston. Meat fruit is a trompe l’oeil whereby a mandarin sphere encases chicken liver parfait. I made some terrible mistakes. Watch how I got on.

Kathy’s continental potatoes

Do you listen to the Off Menu Podcast? Ed Gamble and James Acaster ask guests to name their favourite starter, main dish, side, dessert and drink. It’s an excuse for some fun chat. One of their dream guests was the incredible Kathy Burke, who had a homely and delicious sounding menu. Her side dish of “Kathy’s Continental Potatoes” spoke to me for some reason so I had to make it. And whaddya know, they’re great!

Boxtails

The lovely people at Boxtails sent me some of their cocktail sachets to try. Letterbox-friendly, their boxes come in a variety of flavours. I’ve tried a bunch, to the point where I can’t remember what I’ve drunk now! Though I do recall the Bramble being tasty. Word of warning, they are pretty strong! I recommend plenty of ice. And then have another one.

Garlic and black pepper seasoning

I’m a little obsessed with this seasoning from Santa Maria lately. Readily available in supermarkets. I’ve been grinding it over roast potatoes, into meatballs, over broccoli… whatever I can get my hands on. Love it!

Gumbo Recipes

I’ve been playing around with Gumbo recipes lately. Chuck in some ingredients and you get some recipe inspo back atcha. Gumbo crawls recipe sites (including this one!) and pulls in ideas. Other sites have done this but I like the wide variety of sources it uses. Give it a try!

Floyd on France

I’ve been reminding myself what an absolute treat the show Floyd on France (iPlayer link) was. 7 episodes of self-deprecating, leisurely escapades in food and cooking. It feels like the whole thing is made up on the spot and it’s all the better for it. There’s never been another presenter like Keith Floyd. Go revisit if you’re in the UK. And if not, Floyd on Fish is easily found on YouTube.

Categories
curry food lamb tomato

lamb rogan josh

I’ve got a bit of a thing for curries at the moment, helped by recent repeats of Floyd’s India on Five. There’s tons of Keith Floyd’s typical ease, wit and of course plenty of great recipes. He tours the country and attempts to distill the tastes of the region into a handful of recipes. It never fails to impress me how different the techniques are around India yet still maintaining similar techniques: crackling, tempering, masala, gravy etc. I recently enjoyed a chicken tikka masala made at home and just had to do something from this series. The one that stuck out to me was a lamb rogan josh. That was the recipe sorted, what about the meat?

I was fortunate enough to be sent a boneless lamb leg by Abel & Cole. Their specialty is weekly veg boxes, serving up a random assortment of organic, locally-grown produce delivered to your door. Unfortunately this service doesn’t quite suit me; I’m a weekly planner who organises food for the week and getting a bunch of stuff I have to plan around just doesn’t fit. In addition to this however they also act as a butcher and grocer; including this lovely joint. I opened it out so I could cube it, trimming away the excess surface fat (if I was roasting this would have been extremely welcome, but not suited to the pot-roasting I was about to do). Cutting first into strips it was clear this was great-quality meat; an even marbling of fat within, a healthy ruby colouring and a loose texture.

On with the recipe then, the few unusual quirks to it were: onions (plus a couple of garlic cloves) were fried first to get a little colour, before being blitzed and added to the pan. After an hour or so in the curry this left a lovely sweetness that I really enjoyed. Also it’s in two parts; the lamb is cooked down with the spices first until it goes fairly dry – much like a rendang (or is it penang?) from Thai cooking – before adding the remainder of the ingredients. This caked the flavour right on to the meat in a very pleasing fashion. Towards the end I added ground almonds and possibly overcooked them a touch – they came out gritty and slightly bitter. That said the overall flavour of the dish was tremendous, giving and giving as a good curry should, with fragrant cloves to begin with, sweet onions and tomatoes, leaving with a slightly peppery finish. I love to eat a curry with a decent naan bread, pushing the meat ‘n’ sauce around and scooping up. This was perfect for that, as it had a quite thick gravy with which to mop. Next time however I’ll add a little more cardamom, and perhaps not let the almonds cook out so long – in face I might be tempted to leave them out altogether.

And the meat? Superb. It yielded beautifully in chunky flakes, and despite being up against the strongest of flavours you could still taste that it was lamb underneath all the spices. About half an hour into cooking I had a sneaky sample of the sauce and you tell that the lamb had started to release fats into the mix, as the slightly greasy – yet delicious – unmistakeable lamb flavour started to seep through. It was a beautiful piece of meat from Abel & Cole, and while I might not personally consider them for weekly veg (I have a friend who swears by their boxes) I will definitely go back to them for special joints of meat. In fact, I think I’ll be ordering my Christmas gammon from there any minute now…

Lamb rogan josh:

2 onions, sliced

4 garlic cloves, peeled

4 cardamom pods

2 cloves

1 tablespoon ginger paste

1 teaspoon chilli powder

1 teaspoon turmeric

1/2 teaspoon paprika

300g plain yoghurt

1.5kg lamb leg, diced

1 tin tomatoes

2 tablespoons ground almonds

2 tablespoons coriander, chopped

  1. Fry the onions and garlic in a little oil until softened and starting to colour. Transfer to a food processor and blitz until smooth.
  2. Add some oil to a pan and fry the cardamom and cloves over a high heat until a fierce crackling noise is heard (about 2-3 mins).
  3. Turn the heat down and add the ginger and onion pastes. You should stir continuously to avoid sticking and burning. Add the chilli, turmeric and paprika and stir well to avoid the powder clumping together.
  4. Add the yoghurt and stir until combined, then add the lamb and a good pinch of salt. When everything is well mixed transfer to your lowest hob heat and leave to bubble gently, uncovered, for about an hour and a half. Stir every half an hour or so.
  5. When the the mixture has gone quite dry add the tomatoes and ground almonds and simmer for another 30 minutes. Check the seasoning and stir through coriander. Serve with rice, naan, a vegetable side or all three.
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