Not terribly sophisticated but you can’t beat a piece of gammon. I rubbed the steaks first in a little fennel and black pepper before griddling both sides. This gave the outside of the meat a lovely charred finish, with the perfume of fennel and spike of pepper lingering amid the meaty saltiness.

When it comes to mash I prefer to bake – you don’t get any of that wateriness and I find you need to add less other stuff to take away from the potato flavour. A little charred spring onion added to it and hey presto – it’s champ.